Dusk is falling over the city like a blanket. I don’t know what time  it is. I don’t have a watch but I can always rely on the city clock, if  it is working. But on this particular evening, the city clock’s face is  dressed in campaign posters. A large grinning face stares at me from the  clock’s post. Behind it, the clock is fast asleep, its arms taking a  break. I reach down into my underwear’s pocket and take out my old Alcatel  mobile phone. It is a quarter past seven. Gosh! I’m going to miss my  favourite soap opera on TV tonight. I have to rush and get a matatu  quick.
At the matatu stage there is only one of them. People are fighting to  get in and head home. The matatu tout takes advantage of this and hikes  the fare.
“Eastleigh fifty! Fifty Eastleigh!” shouts the young man. “
Kama hautaki enda mguu!” he adds arrogantly.
I weigh my options between trekking to Eastleigh and parting with my  fifty shillings for a distance where normally I would be charged twenty  shillings. It is late, dangerous, and above all, by the time I get home,  my favourite soap opera will be over. I wouldn’t know whether Alejandro  decided to confess his undying love to Maria or whether Camilla came in  and spoilt the magic moment when they were just about to kiss.
Clutching my handbag close to my chest, I push and shove near the  door but the men are too strong. I give up and decide to wait for the  next matatu. But just then, the 
Machine, sitting at the driver’s cabin, beckons to me. “Psst! Psst! 
Mrembo, come
ukae hapa.”
My luck. I will seat comfortably next to the driver where I won’t  have to endure the congestion in the passengers’ side of the matatu.  The 
Machine opens the door and steps out. He does not wait for  me to get in. Instead, he lifts me up swiftly and before I can say ‘No,’  I am seated next to the driver and the 
Machine is lifting another pretty girl to sit next to me. He then jumps in.
A signal from the tout and we are on our way out of the city. The 
Machine turns  up the volume and I can feel the music vibrating in my ribs. The girl  next to me reaches for her lipstick from her bag. She tries to apply it  but she misses her lips and ends up smearing her nose with red lipstick  as the driver swerves to avoid an oncoming 
boda boda.
We are then temporarily held in a traffic jam. The tout jumps out of  the matatu and tries to create a space big enough for the matatu on the  pedestrians’ pavement. He joins other matatu touts who are busy  harassing a young woman driver stuck to her Vitz steering wheel.  “Madam, 
Kama hujui kuendesha gari tutakuonyesha,” they shout.  The young woman is too scared to drive away. The touts join hands and  pushing her small car of the way, into the other lane.
We continue on our journey and now we are at an intersection. The  driver stops suddenly in the middle of the road and the tout jumps out,  runs ahead and spies the traffic on both sides. He then indicates to the  driver to follow Kirinyaga Road. We swerve to the left, over the  pavement and into the wrong side of the road.
A handcart pusher crosses the road, completely ignoring the speeding  matatu on the wrong side of the road. In his handcart he pulls a bag of  potatoes, a plastic paper bag that seems to be stuffed with clothes, and  a baby. The goods’ owner runs behind, trying to catch up with the  handcart puller. She too does not seem too concerned with the oncoming  matatu. Her goods are more precious and you cannot let these handcart  pushers out of your eye for even one moment. Our driver suddenly brakes  and we are thrown forward. As the handcart pusher and the woman passes, a  young couple takes advantage of the opportunity and cross the road,  holding onto each other tightly. Our driver and his companion’s eyes  follow the couple but I guess they are just focused on the girl.
Then we are on the move again but before I can regain my composure,  the matatu stops again as suddenly. The tout is out and calling in more  passengers into the already full matatu. From the rearview mirror, I can  see him helping only the women into the matatu, by gently holding onto  their waits and hips.
The tout then comes to the window and shouts to the 
Machine  to increase the volume of the music. His laughter is swallowed by the  noise and he ends up looking like an actor miming out a scene in a play.
The matatu is on the move again but the conductor is left behind. I  then see him run and jump to grab the iron pole by the door. He then  swings his body into the already full matatu and he is hidden from my  view in the rear view window.
I am still thinking about his dangerous game when suddenly there is a  scratch on my shoulder. I turn back sharply and a big, hairy and  muscular hand is outstretched. The girl beside me tries to hand over her  fare but the 
Machine restrains her hand. “
Leo usilipe. I’ll pay for you,” he says. The girl throws a side glance at him and giggles. She pushes her money back into her bag.
Slowly, I remove my money from the bag, hoping the 
Machine will say the same thing to me before the outstretched hand grabs it. Who wouldn’t want a free ride anyway? But the 
Machine  is not even looking at me. He has started a conversation with the girl.  They are talking about something to do with the high cost of rent  nowadays, especially for people who live alone.
I slowly watch as my five hundred shillings note disappears behind  me. A huge television screen has been used effectively to block the  driver’s cabin from view of the rest of the passengers in the matatu.  For the same reason, I don’t see the conductor except for his huge hand.
“
Karao! Karao!” the shout comes from the 
Machine and the tout at the same time.
“I have already seen his blue cap but I’m not going to let him arrest me,” the driver answers calmly.
“
Pita na yeye!” the 
Machine shouts to the driver as  the police officer moves to the middle of the road, his baton raised  high to indicate to the driver to pull over by the road side.
But our driver does not stop nor slow down. Taking the advice of the 
Machine,  he steps harder on the gas and we are flying towards the lone policeman  standing in the middle of the road. When the blue uniformed officer  realizes the danger he is in, he jumps to the pavement, cursing the  driver and the matatu. In anger, frustration and shame, he throws his  baton at the matatu and I watch in horror as the rear view window is  smashed.
“
Kumamake!” the driver curses adding, “Who does that stupid policeman think he is?”
“He is just a junior officer! Doesn’t he know the owner of this matatu is a senior police officer?” the 
Machine offers an answer.
“
Huyo karoa anacheza na job 
yake sana,” it is the  girl beside me. I also agree with her, though I don’t voice my comments.  That young policeman must be very naïve to think he could arrest his  senior’s driver and take his matatu in.
We are now getting into the residential areas and the passengers start alighting one by one. The 
Machine  temporarily forgets the girl beside me whom he was chatting up and  concentrates on his work. For each passenger that drops off from the  matatu, his machine clicks once. But not for every passenger though. One  young man drops off as the matatu slows down at a bump on the road. He  does it in a style where he puts his left foot on the ground first and  lifting his left hand above his head, drops off without waiting for the  matatu to stop. Then the conductor shouts, “
Sare!” He is the only one, beside the girl, who gets a free ride.
We are almost home now. But just before we get to when I usually alight, the driver makes a u-turn and stops.
“
Mwisho!” he says looking further ahead.
“But you have not reached the end of the route. How am I going to get home in the darkness?” I ask.
Before I can get an answer, the 
Machine is out, and the girl  too. The few passengers left in the matatu are also alighting. No use  arguing with these matatu people. We have to walk the few remaining  blocks home.
I get off from the matatu and hurry to keep up with the other  passengers. It is always safer to walk in a group especially at such a  time. Then the matatu rushes off to town for the next group eager to go  home.
It is only when the matatu disappears behind the corner that I  remember I did not get back my change from the conductor. And by the  time I get home, my favourite soap opera will be over.
